![]() What I want to say with that is, that if you’re only printing slow, at fine layer heights and with the standard 0.4mm nozzle, you’re usually not that concerned with melting rates. What you can see is, that depending on the feature our volumetric flow-rates are around 2 to 4.5mm³/s. To get an idea what those numbers mean, I sliced a 3DBenchy for the Ender-3 at a layer height of 0.16mm. Since the feedsystem of the Ender is weak, as soon as the filament didn’t melt properly anymore, the backpressure increased and the filament started skipping. So even though the material might not be properly melted, the Prusa was able to just force the filament through the nozzle. That is, of course, partly due to the double-sided Bondtech gears and the short and straight filament path. In terms of number, I had to limit the melting rate of the Ender-3 to 5mm³/s, whereas the Prusa was able to easily print at 12mm³/s before the filament started skipping or grinding. The thing was, that my Prusa was more than double as fast in printing those parts. One machine, I had serious problems in that regard was my Ender-3 Pro, I used a lot last year for printing face shields. SliceEngineering doesn’t only offer these heat breaks for their Copperhead hotend but they also sell them for other machines, like the hugely popular Ender series. When I first heard about their claims about higher melting rates in a size that’s equal to a V6 I was intrigued and wanted to try it out. I know bi-metal heat breaks from SliceEngineering hotends, especially their latest Copperhead. These sit in the heaterblock and they help to increase the length of your melting zone and will start heating your filament efficiently all the way from the start. ![]() Let’s finally get to the lower threads, that are also made from copper for a particular reason. So all the heat that made it through the thin tube is transmitted very quickly into the heatsink where it dissipates and therefore also helps avoiding heatcreep. Then, there is the upper part of the heat break, which is made from copper. ![]() Also, due to their manufacturing process, they can be stronger than regular stainless steel and the surface finish is also very smooth, which reduces friction. The thinner the wall, the less heat can be conducted and the sharper the temperature transition. Stainless steel tubes are available with very thin walls, thinner than you would be comfortable when machining them. It features a thin metal tube that guides the filament. The bi-metal heat break improves on the all-metal heat break in a way that it is a multi-part and multi-material construction. Bowden hotends have a slightly different approach and use the even worse thermal conductivity of the PTFE to isolate the hot- from the cold end, though this just on the side. Are there other options to break this free or am I stuck with buying a replacement heat-sink? I already ordered a replacement, but it'd be nice to have a backup in case something else goes awry (as has been the case with this modification this is snafu number 4).Stainless steel is often used for that application, or even more recent heat breaks use titanium, which features an even small heat transfer coefficient but comes with other downsides. I couldn't find my regular needle-nose and will go to the store to try that. I've also tried pliers and rounded needle-nose pliers. I've tried removing it with a jeweler's drill (which is how I removed the heater block portion, but I cannot get a good grip on the long threaded piece. It's mostly thread (with thermal compound) but a bit of the unthreaded metal is sticking out (above the disk shown). The red square shows what it in the heat-sink. The part that screws into the heat-sink is stuck, though I was able to remove it from the heater block section.īelow is a picture of the heatbreak. I got to the final step of hot-tightening the hot side and managed to snap my heatbreak. ![]() I'm trying to replace my hotend with the E3D Hemera direct kit.
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